The Land Rover 50th anniversary tour started off in Johannesburg several weeks earlier and was about to tackle Sani Pass, situated in the Drakensberg Mountains between Lesotho and the RSA. It is one of the most beautiful passes in the Southern Hemisphere and became well known in 4×4 circles when the annual Roof of Africa rally used to be run there some years ago. Although the first motor vehicle to negotiate the pass was a Jeep, Land Rovers were used extensively to open up and maintain trade with the interior. The dirt road is good by Lesotho standards but the gradient is quite formidable at 1 : 6 and everyone was looking forward to a real off-road challenge through Lesotho at last. Four other Series Ones had joined us in Durban just for the pass.
They helped us to tune our Series One for the altitude and 20 vehicles eventually crossed the border and started up the pass. In some spots we had to engage low range first in our Series One (named Chukkie after the Prince of Wales whom he resembles) but the scenery was so magnificent that I hardly noticed. There were waterfalls everywhere and around every bend in the road there would be another beautiful view – and there were many bends. Thabana Ntlenyana ( Black Mountain ), the highest mountain in Southern Africa, was towering on our right at 3482 metres.
Off Road Challenge Through Lesotho
Having had a beer in the highest pub in Africa we said goodbye to the four Series Ones and prepared ourselves for some serious rough driving. It was an off road challenge through Lesotho as heavy summer rains over the last two years had caused major damage to the roads. Menoaneng Pass at 3030 metres and the Sehonghong or White Pass in particular, made men out of the remaining boy drivers we still had in our group. The driving certainly made a lasting impression on everyone and was one of the highlights of the tour. The gradient and hairpin bends are exacerbated by the extremely bad state of the track.
Boulders and holes make a wheel drop another foot or so on an already steep gradient. Lesotho certainly has the best rough driving available in South Africa or to quote Terry: “These are the worst roads it has been my pleasure to drive over”. At Koma-Koma bridge we found the Orange River (the same one that opens into the sea at Alexander Bay on the West Coast) swollen and washing quite strongly over the low water bridge. Our campsite was on the other side being one of the few level spots in Lesotho, so Brian walked across to gauge the depth and strength of the stream and then took the plunge and drove across. Terry had to hold Chukkie’s steering wheel on full lock to the right to counteract the power of the stream.
Further along the route the track which runs along the river had been washed away and the way to go is simply along the boulder strewn river for several kilometres. Matabeng pass, although long and steep, was in a good condition and posed no problem to most people except to Wouter (and Elmarie, South African, Series Il LWB rebuild still being finished en route) who was overheating. He jumped out every few minutes with a 25 litre can of water and poured some over the engine. The Series One’s fuel pump worked in stops and starts so we kept him company. A thunderstorm on the other side of the pass turned the track into a river and the going became even slower.
Sehlabatebi National Park
When driving in Lesotho one does not ask how far it is but how long it takes. Although we had only 127 km to travel from Koma-Koma to Sehlabatebi National Park it took about nine hours of off road challenge through Lesotho. On the exceedingly bad track inside the park we found Daniel stuck in a rut which had become too deep and muddy. Marius (and Toos, new Dutch immigrants, 110 diesel, tent) towed him out and we arrived at the camp just in time for a sundowner. Sehlabatebi is Lesotho’s only National Park and the views and scenery are spectacular even in mist and rain which often occurs. We booked the lodge there and Elmarie baked delicious bread which was consumed with gusto by her ravenous friends.
We awoke to a white misty morning on our departure day and traveled through thick mist until we descended from the high mountains to Matatiele in the Transkei. Pim & Thandie were leaving the tour. So were Johan and Linda (South African, Series III Station Wagon, bed inside, awning outside) who had the dubious distinction of having had their Land Rover towed out of the mud by a train and Marius and Toos in their very tired, blue-smoke-producing diesel which needed rest and tender loving care.
Our driving in Lesotho was marred by the incessant high pitched screeching of “sweeeeets!” by children of all ages along the route. The friendly waves in Swaziland, the Transkei and Kwa-Zulu/Natal were much more enjoyable. The last stretch of off road challenge through Lesotho to Matatiele was so corrugated and full of bumps and holes that it caused six casualties amongst the Land Rovers: two Defenders broke rear door mounted spare wheel holders and one broke a rear door. Two One Ten’s broke a shock absorber each. The washers had been fitted the wrong way round. John and Hillary Follet (English from Wales, shipped their Ninety to South Africa) had electrical problems which turned out to be a disintegrated battery caused by the jarring corrugations.
Eastern Cape Nelson Mandela’s Home
Refreshed after our night stop in Elliot, where Ian and Jana joined us in their Classic Range Rover, we continued to the rolling grassed hills characteristic of the Transkei. Round huts are painted white or blue on the side facing the sun and tin roofs are replacing thatch. We stopped for lunch near President Mandela’s home village and new local residence. On arrival at Zithole Mission Station which is where the track ends on the map, we were swamped by young prospective guides who were all eager to show us the track to Mbolompo beach and work for us.
Eventually Fanie (and Susan, South African, Defender Tdi, dome tent) employed one who showed us the way. Alan and Annabel (South African) arrived the next day in their beautifully restored extra long Series Il camper with turbo diesel engine fitted (featured in LRO, Summer 1997), guided by their GPS only.
Transkei Coast
The Transkei coast is rocky, wild and rugged, interspersed with pretty sandy beaches. The locals live everywhere (they even dip their cattle in the sea) and as there are very few formal camp sites, we were the center of attention for a while. The people just stand around and watch,which can be very disconcerting. A yoga display on the beach by Daniel and Julia really made their day. Walking is good, swimming is rough and good and we bathed in the river where our washing was being done by the local women. By now very necessary maintenance to our vehicles, like checking all bolts and nuts on the body and under carriage, was carried out.
Because of the heavily populated and sparsely covered surroundings, the usual rough camp method of going to the toilet (taking a spade into the bush and digging a hole), could not be employed and we had to make another plan. Jochem had a camping toilet seat and Willie had a tent which they pitched and then mounted the toilet seat on two sand ladders over a hole dug in the sand. A pile of sand was at hand with which to flush and ‘voila’ – a toilet. This worked very well until a short and violent wind storm late on the last afternoon blew the tent away and left the loo seat standing forlornly on its own.
The wind also caused havoc in the camp and Hans dislocated an elbow when he tripped and fell trying to secure a rope. Fortunately Doctor Chris (South African, Defender Tdi, Brakkah off road trailer with roof tent, pretty wife and 4 kids) was on the spot and advised further medical attention. Kurt transported Hans over 1000km to Cape Town and rejoined us later.
Driving in Transkei
Driving over the hills in the Transkei is quite an experience as they are very steep with a soft grassy surface which is muddy underneath. Dr. Chris was afraid he would get stuck on the steep rise from the camp, so Brian towed him at high speed up and over the top with trailer bouncing crazily at the back. Shixini beach is further south and was easily reached with Alan guiding us on his GPS. The problem is not that there are no roads and tracks, but rather that there are too many, usually not sign posted.
Terry, Willie, Dave and Chris caught kob, stumpnose and grunter which provided a lovely fried fish dinner that night. Although we had sunshine, a gale force wind blew for two days so that we were not too sad too move inland to Hogsback Forestry Camp, a lovely peaceful retreat in forests planted by the British settlers more than a century ago. Here we found Clive and Sylvia in a Discovery. They had removed the rear seats in the vehicle and fitted a frame into the back to accommodate refrigerator and kitchen and slept in a dome tent.
In Part 3 the ultimate Landy tour travels from the East Coast to the West Coast.
by Ina Cotton
Watch the video at The Overland Legend on YouTube
